Farmer and bunkhouse owner Willie Nicolson, who brought me two farm eggs for breakfast, also talked about some aspects of the glen’s social history and later gave me a book about the glen, Beloved Over All: Glen Elchaig In Kintail, written by his late aunt Isabel M. Nicolson. After breakfast and a good rummage  through Gerry’s piles of yellowing outdoor magazines, I was back down to the road to find the old track up to the Coulin Pass again. Nie ohne Wanderstöcke nach Schottland! The path remains poor and relatively obscure as it winds down and across the face of the hill into Glen Elchaig, occasionally skirting the top of rock faces. The path “bifurcates” at some point, say B&H, employing an unnecessarily obscure word. The rufty tufty assessment really comes down to the sections of rough, pathless walking – like today – compounded by the sense of isolation and distance from human community. Besonders an einer in Hanglage geht der Adrenalinspiegel ganz nach oben. Aber eigentlich fühlt sich das hier wie das Ziel an und wir beschließen, dass das Cape noch einen Tag warten muss. Im Zelt ist es so schön kuschelig:-) Aber die Dusche auf dem Campingplatz tut gut. Day 11: Camasnagaul to Ullapool – 28 miles (by car), early morning wildlife watchers on Little Loch Broom, The A’Chuil bunkhouse across the river in Glen Dessarry, Finding the path to the pass to Barrisdale Bay, Where the path splits to Shenevall bothy on the way to Corrie Hallie. coming over the pass before dropping down to Barrisdale Bay. About Us 'Oner' Blog. Ignore it and continue straight on or you’ll get badly lost. The Cape Wrath Trail is challenging and frustrating, mostly because the "Cape Wrath Trail" is something that someone (probably on the internet) made up. But isn’t alone-ness what the solo walker is seeking on walks like this? This was because, from the forest, another glen descends south west to the sea and empties into Loch Morar. One of the pleasures of doing the CWT is summer is the profusion of wild flowers. More. This day’s hard walk ended as it began, with a clamber over rocks beside sea water. Im Spätsommer soll es losgehen – aber leider macht mir der Job zunächst einen Strich durch die Rechnung. Und die Kamera? I had and had wondered what they were for. On Blogger since November 2011. I kept walking to the nearby Kintail Outdoor Centre, which is marked on OS as a place of tourist interest. Although OS has a pass marked here, this isn’t the way out. B&H warn that it’s a tiring, tortuous path and so it proved. Am folgenden Tag geht es nach Fort William. Ein paar Tage später laufe ich wieder in eine Nebelwand und freue mich, dort ein vom Trail schon bekanntes Gesicht zu sehen. In truth, I hadn’t given the matter a lot thought but the bunkhouse owners persuaded me that getting a lift early the next morning would not be a problem. Outdoor; Photography; Hacking; About Me; Cape Wrath Trail – von Ullapool bis …. And, depending on where you come down from Gualann nan Osna, you might be north or south of the tree-on-rock. But first there was an 8am bus journey back down the road to the crossroads at Drumsallie, where B&H’s CWT starts in earnest. The Cape Wrath Trail is considered the hardest hiking route in the United Kingdom. The reason why I missed it was because I was following another track through the pass; the reason I found it was because I had a sudden feeling that I was in the wrong pass and walking to the wrong loch. When planning my Cape Wrath Trail trip this year I expected to walk it ultrapacking-style, going for long days with no stops at a steady 5km/h pace. Und auch der Kontakt per Handy in die Heimat. Much of the time there is no path. There is a very steep and pathless descent to the glen below and, once there, you face a very boggy walk to Strathan (my right leg disappeared up to the thigh in the bog at one point). No matter. Was für ein Tag! And their names, they said, were Mary and Joseph. The one going upstream should help you negotiate the rough plod for a while but when this also runs out you are left to pick your own way to the steep bottom of the pass. But before heading on, turn left at the bridge over the River Coulin and you will come to the waterfalls at Easan Dorcha and surely one of the smallest, neatest bothies in Scotland – the Tea House, as it’s called. I’m glad I did because the woodland walking beside and over numerous burns, some slow moving, some roaring with white water, was rewarding. Day Seven: Strathcarron to Achnashellach – eight miles. Pfade. The route is unmarked and there is no official line. I first heard about the Cape Wrath Ultra in 2015 but couldn’t take part in the 2016 race as I was already committed to another event. B&H’s comical advice at this point is that you should turn left at the burn ‘at a point identified by a tree on a rock’, walk upstream for about 1km and then head NW up the side of the glen. Mein Vorhaben beeindruckt und ich werde von ihnen mit zusätzlichem Proviant versorgt, bin noch Tage später vom Inhalt der einen oder anderen Tüte überrascht. Since there were a multiplicity of steep surfaces and rock faces I went for the nearest slope I could scramble up, the one covered in bracken, and hoped I would find the path eventually. This is basically a big scenic detour and I’d already identified a different and more direct route into Glen Elchaig on the map. Or is the issue not that straight forward? Etc, etc. Als ich vom Cape Wrath Trail, vom CWT, lese, will ich herausfinden, ob ich den packe. But this is plain rubbish, since most of the Brooke/Hinchcliffe route is on tracks along moorland, glens and over passes which have been formed over generations. Surely the loch wasn’t that far? “Near where you came through the kissing gate on the way here did you see four stones sticking out of the ground?” said Willie. Since there are no fiddly navigational problems between here and the main road on Little Loch Broom, I took a leisurely pace across the moorland on the top and lazily filled the water bottle at springs and little water falls when it pleased. Just before Gulvain you turn left off the track and begin the gentle ascent north over boggy ground to a rocky outcrop called Gualann nan Osna. Or, you know, get a good GPS device. This is true, but I could see vehicle tracks heading up and down the burn on the far bank. Und irgendwie ist es spannend, dass so bewusst wahrzunehmen. These looked nice but the hostel at Glenfinnan was £14 and that won the argument at this stage of the journey. I moved to the  left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. It is renowned as the most difficult long distance trail in the UK due to large sections of difficult terrain. “Oh, I’m only interested in the rocks,” he said. Am Ende des Tages finde ich einen traumhaften Zeltplatz an einer Ruine mit Bach. Once on the top the path winds steeply up to the broad pass and then begins to drop steeply towards Barrisdale Bay on Loch Hourn. Because while there are no little signs sticking out of the ground marked ‘Cape Wrath Trail this way’ – yet – this is a trail that long-distance walkers, searching for something different, are evidently tackling in increasing numbers. On the face of it, it doesn’t seem right that you should have to walk the best part of ten miles west to the sea on a route to the north. A boulder field lies around you at the top of a slope that drops steeply to Glen Shiel. A burly bloke in a pony tail ran past and spat at the ground near my feet. In contrast to the jagged stony beasts to the south,  some of the mountains visible around Strathcarron are more whale-backed and hide their bulk in thick low clouds, as if sulkily reluctant to show their true face. Der Weg ist tatsächlich ein Weg. Beim Zusammenpacken fängt es bereits an. Please consider subscribing to my channel it's free and really helps me out, thank you! You can follow the boundary fence around it if you want, but there is now a clear, if rough and semi-bulldozed track through the middle of it that comes out just south of Kinlochewe. And if not, you can simply salivate over all the wonderful, wild, completely free places to rest your head in Scotland. From this point I had the first panoramic view of Strathan, Glen Pean and Glen Dessarry where I would be walking the next day. And the bunkhouse people were right, it wasn’t a problem since the fifth driver that went past the next morning stopped and dropped me off right outside the Youth Hostel at Ullapool just as breakfast was finishing. £16 on average but, as he said, it was only open to groups. This is the one I followed for the simple reason that it looked easier than the other one. But after a while the track peters out and you are left to find your own best way over the rough terrain. In fact, if you keep parallel and close to the estate fence that ascends through the wood and you’ll soon find the way. Like the one to Loch Nevis, the glen to Loch Morar contains a lochan – and I could now see a body of water ahead. Ich sauge alles in mich auf, gehe Freunden und Kollegen auf die Nerven. At this point I did wonder if I could I just follow the glen north all the way to the loch. Cape Wrath Trail Gear List. The path continues around the hill and, where it peters out at the next burn, the Coire Mhalagain, you are directed to turn right and head up to the pass, called Bealach Coire Mhalagain. The real walking now begins. The descent was interesting through the rocks and past numerous deer, all watching me sceptically. And after a while you come to a dead end, which is the sheer drop of a waterfall. Karte und Kompass oder GPS-Gerät sollten unbedingt dabei sein. Ultrapacking on the Cape Wrath Trail . There is certainly a faint 4×4 track heading in the right direction and I would recommend taking this to make life easier. 2013/10/18 Outdoor. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) is a walking route beginning in Fort William and ending at Cape Wrath on the north western tip of Scotland. Nasse Handschuhe sind doof. It's often touted as Britain's toughest long distance walk, due to its pathless sections, remoteness, and Scotland's fierce weather. Trending Posts. Und dann der Strand. After a while the beast Gulvain shows its face. May 13, 2016; It's hard to believe that this website is now nearly five years old. Another Cape Wrath Trail blog? Der Cape Wrath Trail ist ein ca. Leider muss ich am nächsten Morgen feststellen, dass die Sachen in so einer Hütte kaum trocknen. Since there is nowhere to stay there they must assume that walkers will wild camp. Even so, I completely missed the iron gate that B&H mention as having seen in 1983. Im gemütlichen Dachzimmer des Hotels ist genug Platz, den Rucksack für die Tour zu sortieren. Nach einigen Furten bei Wind und teilweise Hagel und Sturm freue ich mich aber über ein festes Dach über dem Kopf. All photographs in this blog were taken, for better or worse, with an HTC Sensations XE smartphone. Whatever the reasoning, this should be an easier day walking. Bei ein paar Tageswanderungen auf der Insel Skye vor einigen Jahren hat mich die Landschaft sehr beeindruckt. Wir nähern uns langsam dem Cape. B&H suggest you “follow the road”  a mile or so up to Strathcarron from this point but it would be perfectly excusable to hitch a lift or even get the train from the stop at Attadale to the next station at Strathcarron or Achnashellach in Glen Carron. Then he said that the Brooke/ Hinchcliffe route was out of date because paths they described no longer existed. Here, I followed B&H’s advice  to seek out Loch an Iasaich and was soon glad I had made the diversion. However, the profusion of pretty bog wild flowers here, as well as the occasional leg-breaking hole in the ground, should help keep your mind off the leaden feeling in your legs. It takes place annually in Leider fehlt mir im Moment dazu die Zeit, meine Tour von 2017 in Worte zu fassen. A lick of paint for the website. Schreib uns eine E-Mail: blog@camp4.de, on Reisebericht: Schottland – Cape Wrath Trail. Und auf einmal ist es Mitte April. Ich erreiche die Maol Bhuidhe Bothy. Viel mehr ist es ein Netzwerk an einander gereihten Wanderstrecken (durch teils wegloses Gelände) mit vielen Alternativrouten, die dich über 370 km durch die nordwestlichen Highlands von Fort William nach Cape Wrath führen. Glen Shiel was the scene  of a brief firefight between Hanoverian and Jacobite forces in 1719, the year of the second of the three Jacobite rebellions. Blog; Hiking the Cape Wrath Trail – Part 5. What this means is that when the tide  is in at Loch Nevis then you have to scramble over some big, big boulders to get around to the mouth of the River Carnach in the glen next door. This track cuts steeply upwards through the forest north of the A890 and marks the route of an old drove road between Torridon and Craig – which is where Gerry’s Hostel stands. With my trekking poles lost or broken, and the compass having been dropped somewhere beside the River Carnach, I didn’t at this point feel like I should be trusted with the navigation of the Beardmore Glacier. Der Rucksack wird trotzdem schwer genug. But there is a bunkhouse close by, at the glen’s other hamlet, Camas-luinie, which is where I now headed as I plodded north west up the road and recrossed the river through a field of Highland Cattle to the farm at Coille-righ. To me, the reputation can’t be due to the length of the daily sections;  many long-distance paths have much greater daily mileages. I heard later that two Americans had tried, and failed, to ride this path on mountain bikes they’d brought over with them from the USA. And when alone-ness starts to feel more like loneliness, don’t you gain sight of the emotional landscape that lies within your own hidden self? The second chance to get lost comes after you’ve reached Lochan Fada and are asked to navigate a short distance to a second, out-of-sight, body 0f water, the much smaller Loch Meallan an Fhudair. Wir lassen uns überreden, einzusteigen, haben so noch etwas Zeit am Leuchtturm, aus dieser Perspektive aber nicht übermäßig beeindruckend. Nach einer Übernachtung in der Strathan Bothy ist es nicht mehr weit bis zur Sandwood Bay. This one began with the way-too-expensive Scotrail sleeper to Fort William. You’re about to start a long-distance walk. Despite some wet and wild weather, I was never uncomfortable during the hike and felt prepared for any meteorological scenario that may have occurred. The second woodland of the day, above Kinlochewe, gave B&H same problems since they report that blown trees meant it took them an hour to cover the 1.5km through it – not that they were meant to walk through it at all. And since I had the day off, more or less, I followed the path up to the pass and round back to Achnashellach Station – following B&H’s official route in reverse, in effect. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) has a deceiving name: it is actually not a trail, but a route, running the length of the Scottish Highlands between Fort William in the south and Cape Wrath in the north. The way ahead from Meallan Odhar. I was sad to leave Camas-luinie and would have gladly stayed a few days in quiet Glen Elchaig, which is a world way in feeling from busy Loch Duich, with its tourist traffic passing to and from Skye, just over the other side of the hill. Am Morgen des Abflugs schlafe ich immerhin bis halb vier (der Wecker geht um sechs). Basically, there are two ways to get to Loch an Nid via Bealach na Croise from Kinlochewe. As the river changes direction, the glen steepens and narrows and the sense of seclusion (or isolation) grows greater. The Cape Wrath Ultra® is Scotland’s finest multi-stage ultra running event. Looking back when I finally got to the bottom I could see no trace of the path on the hillside. 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